BASIL

There are three varieties of basil that are used in Thai cuisine. Bai Horapha tastes rather like anise, looks like sweet basil, and is used in red and green curries. Bai Manglaek has a lemony flavour; tiny leaves and is usually sprinkled over salads or used in soups. Bai Grapao has a clove-like taste and purple reddish tinged leaves. It doesn't store well, so buy just before you intend to use it. European basil can be used as a substitute for all varieties if you can't find the Thai varieties. Basil has a strong flavour, so don't use more than the recipe states. Some nurseries sell Thai basil, so try growing your own.

CARDAMOM

An aromatic spice of Indian origin, available as whole seeds, whole pods, or ground. It has a trong, fresh flavour and is an important ingredient of Musaman curry, a Thai dish with a Persian influence.

GARLIC

An indispensable ingredient in Thai cookery, it is available in different varieties, some with very white papery skin, some with pink, some with pink and white skin and some creamy in colour. Choose cloves that are about 1 cm wide, otherwise adjust the quantity as you will find that some cloves are up to 2.5 cm wide.

CHILLIES

Chillies are a common ingredient in Thai cuisine, although not all dishes are hot. Chillies come in a great variety of sizes, shapes and colours, and are available fresh and dried, as flakes and powder. The most commonly used fresh chillies are bird's-eye chillies--small, thin, green or sometimes red, chillies. Generally, the larger the chilli the milder the flavour--the very tiny red chillies can be very hot. To avoid skin irritation, take great care when seeding or chopping chillies--wear rubber gloves. After handling chillies don't touch your face, eyes or any tender part of the body and always wash your hands thoroughly. If you like a hot curry, leave the seeds in, but if you preder a milder flavour, the seeds can be removed to lessen the heat. Whole chillies freeze well in plastic bags and can be chopped frozen. Some chillies are available dried and are usually soaked in water, to soften, before use.

CORIANDER

Also known as cilantro, coriander is the most common herb used in Thai cooking. The whole plant is used--the root, stem and leaves. The seeds are roasted and then ground in a spice mill and used in curry pastes. Fresh coriander is available from Asian food stores, greengrocers, or in pots from plant nurseries. The leaves are used for their fresh, peppery flavour, and as a garnish. For storage, wash and dry the fresh herbs before placing them in plastic bags in the refrigerator--they will keep for 5-6 days. Dried coriander is not a suitable substitute.

CUMIN

This is an aromatic spice with a distinctive flavour and aroma, used in curry pastes. You can buy whole seeds or ground power. The cumin seed is roasted and then ground in a spice mill before using in curry pastes

EGGPLANTS

Many different sizes, shapes and colours are used in Thai cooking. Tiny pea-sized eggplants that are now available in some Asian food stores are often used--they can be bitter in flavour. Small, long lady-finger eggplants are also used. European eggplants may substituted if Thai eggplants are not available.

SHALLOTS

These come in small clusters, like garlic, and brown in colour. Shallots are an important ingredient in Thai cooking and it is even better, of course, if you can find Asian shallots which are similar shape and size but are purple or red in colour. Large red or brown onions can be used as a substitute.

GARLIC CHIVES

Garlic-scented, flat-sided thick chives the have an edible flower. They need very little cooking and are usually added to soups, noodle dishes, stir-fries or salads just before serving. If unavailable, use normal chives.

GINGER

A delicious, aromatic ingredient, important in Thai cooking. Fresh ginger is readily available--buy firm, unwrinkled rhizomes and store them in a plastic bag so they don't dry out.

KAFFIR LIMES AND LEAVES

A knobby, dark-skinned lime with a very strong lime fragrance and flavour. The leaves are fiy shredded for use in curry pastes and salads, or added whole to curries. The rind is also very pungent and is grated over salads, soups and curries. Fresh leaves are available from specialty greengrocers and Asian food stores, and they freeze well in airtight bags. Dried leaves are available from Asian food stores, but can only be added to foods which are simmered to allow to flavour to be released. If kaffir limes are not available, standard limes may be used for rind and juice, bearing in mind that the flavour is not quite the same. The leaves are not suitable as a substitute for kaffir lime leaves.

LEMON GRASS

An aromatic herb that is used in curry pastes, stir-fries and soups. Trim the base, remove the tough, outer layers, and fiy slice, chop or pound the white interior. For pastes and salads, use the tender, white portion just above the root. The whole stem, trimmed and washed thoroughly, can be added to simmering soups and curries and removed before serving. Dried lemon grass needs to soak in water for half an hour before use, but the flavour of fresh is superior.

SNAKE BEANS

These are long, deep green ,string less beans which grow up to 30 cm. Cut in short lengths, they are used in stir-fries, curries and sometimes soups, They have less flavour than other types of green beans but are easier to prepare.

TURMERICE

A bitter spice used for its intense, bright yellow-orange colour. If your use the fresh root, peel away the skin and fiy grate the flesh. It is readily available in powdered form.